Tag Archives: travel blog

When God strikes…

3 Jul

Our family has all migrated back north and left the two of us here, alone in Central America. It’s funny how used to traveling in a larger group we had become, we almost didn’t remember just how much time we need to spend in grocery stores or what the world is like down here without air conditioning (it’s hot… Really, really, really melt-your-eyeballs hot). But we’re adjusting, a little bit at a time (and trying to spend anytime between 11am and 2pm in the shade, preferably in front of a fan).

We put G in a cab headed for the airport (with the price already negotiated; it’s so nice to be able to know these things in advance!) and then wrangled up some of our newly-made friends at Panama by Luis to all go get lunch before we headed to our next work/volunteer adventure.

We didn’t quite make it in time for the bus we had hoped to catch, and instead of rolling into Chitre in the evening we arrived at around 11pm, in a flurry of fireworks. As it turns out Chitre, and actually the Azuero Peninsula in general, is the fiesta center of Panama. You see, Panama likes to party. A lot. And the Azuero Peninsula seems to have decided that if one is going to work Monday through Friday than every weekend should probably have a giant fiesta somewhere on the peninsula complete with street parades, cowboys racing full speed on horseback, salsa dancing in the middle of the street, fireworks shot out of hand-held tin cans, devils scaring children, competitions to see whose modified car sound system can play the loudest, live bands, bouncy houses, and lots and lots and lots of beer. And rum. And contraband.

And it’s just as much slightly-terrifying fun as it sounds! We had arrived (as planned, H had done her research) in time for Chitre’s official saint’s (San Juan Bautista) celebration. Saturday night was the pre-festivities warm up, or really just an excuse to be drunk and in public with fireworks. On Sunday, we started our job at Miami Mike’s Backpackers Hostel by watching the festivities take place right below the balcony! It rained and put a bit of a damper on the end of the night’s revelry, but it was an epic party none-the-less.

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In fact, it was so epic that first thing in the morning on Monday there was a huge lightening storm. Now, it doesn’t rain very often here, even in the rainy season. And especially not in the morning. But the day after this huge festival there was literally a river running down the main street, full up to the sidewalk and lightening hovering over town, deafening all those poor souls with a bit of a hangover. And then a large bolt lit up against the sky, and one of the bell towers of San Juan Bautista’s church caught the end of the fork. The more-than-a-century old tower crumbled to the ground and the storm immediately calmed. Very impressive. Someone had to be rushed to the hospital, the police had to close down the street due to all the rubble, and the townspeople began to murmur about wether God was punishing the drunk Catholics, or if it was because the fiesta had been sponsored and changed to support a local politician this year (it may have been also that the fireworks and general mayhem put a lot of particulates into the air, and the tower had a lightening rod, and it was really old… But these things are not as interesting). In any case, we witnessed history! People will talk about this for YEARS!

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Last week we stayed at Miami Mike’s to give it some of our TLC. We feel like we were fairly productive: cleaning, painting a guest room in Rastafarian theme, taking a trip to the nearby beach to organize and find contacts for clean-up and snorkeling trips, cleaning, pricing and buying fabric to make a flag and curtains, making necessary runs to pick the boss up some beer, cleaning, painting a closet in the Che room black, organizing the bookshelves, cleaning, planning and pricing tile (to put new floors in the bathrooms), fishing for tourists at the bus stop, cleaning, guerrilla-glueing fans back together, oh! and more cleaning.

Things got a bit dicey as H and I both got hormonal (I may or may not have flipped out at more than one point…) in this unbearable heat. Our “shifts” are meant to run back to back from 11-3 and then from 3-7, but since neither of us are willing to subject ourselves alone to the constant honks, whistles, pssts, “hey baby, come here!”, and such that seem to accompany the male ego here in Latin America once the temperature gets out of control, we have both been at it for the full time, every day. We have been able to get a lot of things done, which is nice.

Also, we earned the weekend (Sunday and Monday) off, which is awesome (more about that trip to come shortly)! But this week is all about our adventures in Latin American tiling. Let’s just say that H and I are both terrified of the “tile cutter”, and will be wielding a huge hammer and nail to score the existing tile, which was deemed too much work to remove first. Epic. Terrifying. Good times! Stay tuned!

H ruined the Ruins and the Ruins ruined her

26 Jun

The overnight buses for all sisters were pretty uneventful, which is of course preferred. H and my bus made one stop along the route from David to Panama City, and we almost slept through it until I happened to glance out the window to see a Tica bus marked Costa Rica-Panama (R just happened to be traveling from San Jose, Costa Rica to Panama City on a Tica bus that was scheduled to arrive one hour after our’s) parked close to our bus. We immediately exited the bus (by immediately I mean – we stood in the front bus cab until someone else decided to exit the bus and opened the door for us) in search of R. We were not successful in finding her as all of the doors to the Tica bus were also impossible to open; one of the passengers mentioned that it was going in the opposite direction (we didn’t completely believe this man because there was a feeling that something was lost in translation). After looking in all of the windows of the bus and seeing no R, we gave up and went back to sleep on our bus.

H and my bus arrived in Panama City at around 2:45am and by the time we got our luggage and had a moment to be confused about where R’s bus was to arrive, they pulled up right next to where we were standing – a full hour earlier than scheduled. Not bad for a semi-planned reunion. We also found out later the R was completely laid-out in her bus (because she had been traveling for 3 days straight), so we wouldn’t have seen her in the window… If only we had had some clever bus-breaking-into skills…

We had made arrangements with a recommended hostel, Panama by Luis, that was going to let us hang out on their patio until they opened at 8:00am, so we hopped in a cab. We arrived at the hostel around 3:45am and sat around their patio table catching up on all the happenings until the sun rose nice and bright and other hostel dwellers started getting up for their day (around 5 am). Then we proceeded to promptly pass out on the chairs in incredibly uncomfortable positions.

Once we got checked into the hostel, we decided to venture toward the Panama Canal using public transit. H and I were excited to show R the crazy tricked out buses, which are apparently used all over the city – they call them Diablos Rojos. We even took one out to the canal… definitely not the most comfortable bus ride I have ever taken. We ate at the restaurant by the Miraflores Locks which provided us a perfect vantage point to watch the ships move through the locks. It was a bit expensive for our tight budget, but the cheese sticks made with wonton dough (rather than breading) were awesome with our Panama beer!

We decided watching the ships move through the canal is more interesting than watching grass grow (it is actually pretty quick and before you know it water has filled up or emptied out and the ships were sailing away). We also noticed during our time in Panama City there is a never-ending line of ships waiting to pass through the canal – you can pretty much see ships waiting in line every time you look out at the ocean. It started a full-on deluge while we were visiting the canal so we jumped in a cab to the largest shopping mall in the area to see if we could find some good deals. Found some dancing shoes for $4, which we wore dancing the following evening.

Our second day was full of fish and fishy smells at the Mercado Mariscos; followed by a self-guided tour of Caseo Viejo, or the old/new city of Panama. Caseo Viejo was named a world heritage site relatively recently so it is a mix of restored and severely degraded Spanish buildings all intermixed throughout the area- which makes for some great sightseeing. We sat on a bench right out front of the president’s house (where he actually lives, who lets random tourists sit directly in front of their President’s house?!?,) stopped to view the remodelled national theater while the ballet just happened to be practicing for an upcoming performance, and had some epic sandwiches (they were a bit expensive as well, but so good!) at Super Gourmet. We started walking back towards our bus stop along Avenida Central for more shopping opportunities and then decided to catch the bus further down the way after we took a stroll along the the oceanfront at sunset. It turns out that the bus does not return along that route at all, which we only figured out by walking at least a mile out of the way (public transit is difficult without route maps or times!).

My last day in Panama consisted mostly of food-related activities. I had ceviche from the Mercado Mariscos; we had some fancy gelato in Caseo Viejo; and blended drinks after an amusing bike ride along the Amador Causeway (the causeway was built with all of the ground removed from the Panama Canal construction… as well as used for much of the ground of the new ocean front properties in the city). We also walked around Panama’s old/old city, Panama Viejo. This was the original location of Panama City that was destroyed by a pirate! It is also a world heritage, but they have mostly just tried to preserve what is remaining instead of restoring any building (plus they are super old – 1500s). We enjoyed the stroll through the crumbling buildings until H may or may not have decided to sit/climb on one of the old rock walls outside of the protected area. Needless to say, as soon as H said “F would be telling us to ‘be safe’ right now” a portion of the wall broke off. Don’t worry, if there was any damage to either party it was minimal – for example a small rock laying near a pile of other broken rocks and a few bloody scrapes. But we will neither confirm or deny the specifics…

That evening our hostel owner invited us to a BBQ at a different hostel so we cooked veggie burgers and conversed with fellow travelers. We have to give a shout-out to Panama by Luis, our hostel, and Luis in particular. Not only did he let us come at a ridiculous hour on our first night and not ask us to pay for passing out in his patio chairs, but he was wonderfully helpful in pointing us in the right direction for public transit, answering our questions about Panama, took us dancing, and showed us the city including a trip to the new Trump Tower. Staying at Panama by Luis is like staying with a friend!

My flight left early the next morning for Hawaii, putting an end to my extended 30rdy birdry. The sisters put me in a cab headed for the airport and returned to the room to pack (probably sleep some more) and headed for a festival in the countryside. You all will have to wait to hear from them on their continued adventures likely until next week.

Thanks family and friends for a wonderful birthday and trip, couldn’t have been better! I am already working on the plans for my return trip for more epic traveling with my sisters and family in South America!