Tag Archives: Colombia

Running in the rain

17 Oct

This post is late. I have no good excuse, because all we have been doing for the last 3 days straight is traveling in public transportation, which we all know leaves endless amounts of time to possibly write a blog post since there’s not too much else to do. I did write a little, but instead of finishing up the post on time we slept. Sorry! But without further ado:

We went to Barranquilla with little hope of actually getting to watch the fútbol match in person. We had been told that tickets, which were completely sold out within two hours of being released for 40,000 pesos, were being forged and resold for 100,000 pesos. So there was a chance of getting our hands on a ticket or two, but it would be expensive and likely a fake. Being endlessly optimistic H and I trekked into town, found our friendly couch surfing hosts, and then went straight to the stadium to sort out our plans. My theory was that as we approached closer and closer to kickoff the ticket sellers would become more and more desperate to get the tickets off their hands.

After much searching our best deal was found with a couple selling their extra ticket for 60,000 and another vendor that, after intense bargaining on our part (as well as the couple’s) we got him down to 80,000. Such a deal! (or at least almost, if you don’t think of how much the tickets cost in the first place) The problem was that I had only brought with us 129,000 pesos, and no one was willing to lose 11,000 pesos on this deal. *sigh*

We did make friends with a local gang member (or at least that is how we came to understand his role in the community) who not only chatted with us while we looked for tickets, but also scared away and otherwise intimidated people who came up to us to sell fake tickets. He was very sweet, and would even get protective of us if the vendors tried to overwhelm us with information by taking their tickets himself and giving them a seriously scary look. In the end we didn’t find the deal we were looking for, so we went across the street to a bar.

I have no idea how H got us into the bar; there was a crush of people so large they were spilling onto the street while pushing up against the gate to get in and watch the match, and somehow H is on the other side of the gate, motioning towards me and saying mi hermana. I nodded and the security guard reached through the grip of people around me and pulled me through by my yellow Colombia jersey. We picked a tree in the courtyard of the bar to sit in with a good view of the television and ordered our beer. The energy of the crowd was awesome! We could hear the rumble from the stadium just across the street, and for each of the 2 (plus the one that didn’t end up counting – that brought the crowd to the edge of danger) goals everyone erupted into an excited frenzy of raining beer, flying food particles, and dancing with whomever happened to be nearest, including us in the trees. More intense than the Panama v Canada game for sure!

Colombia won the match 2 – 0, sending Paraguay home without a goal. The city was elated, and while we did stay for a bit at the bar to celebrate with excited dancing, singing, chanting, and watching the sea of yellow pass by on the street, eventually we decided to head back to our couch-surfer host’s house before the buses shut down for the night. Our hosts met us halfway to their home and then took us out to a bar not far from one of the largest transfer spots in Barranquilla, La Troja.

Turns out, besides being the location for all the large fútbol events in Colombia, Barranquilla is also known for their love of rumba, in particular around Carnival. This means that there are a lot of great locations to go out and drink and dance all night. Our hosts were amazing, gathered some friends and showed us how to drink aguardiente to keep the fiesta dance energy going. Our hosts were also good enough to mention how to purchase the legit aguardiente, since there have been cases of immediate blindness due to imbibing bad batches. The drink tastes of licorice, and has the peculiar ability to make one rumba all night rather than feel drunk and tired. H literally danced her shoes off and as we hadn’t had experience with this particular liquor, we may have overindulged a smidge.

This means that the next day we were not particularly hungover, but we were definitely uninspired to make the 18 hour trek to Bogota as we had originally planned. Instead we went with our new friends to an abandoned 16 floor unfinished hotel where we climbed to the top and tested our reactions to vertigo along the way. Apparently the drug kingpin who had commissioned the building was incarcerated in the middle of construction and it has been waiting for someone to come along and pick up the project ever since. This was the role H and I played to get in to see the building.

We then went to the local beach where we swam, played fútbol with the local kids, made a sand pyramid, played baseball in the ocean, H taught our host how to surf, and enjoyed the sun. Apparently now if our friends want to tell each other they need to get some sun, they will simply ask if they are just coming from Wyoming 🙂 We packed up when the afternoon storms rolled in and then one of our hosts asked ¿quieren se bañar en el lluvia? Absolutely!

We put on the dirtiest clothes we had (which also happened to be to be ones we had worn to the fútbol match, gotten beer and food spilt on them, then worn them out dancing all night while sweating out the aguardiente the night before) and went out into the deluge. It felt as if a hose of luke-warm water was turned on high all over the neighborhood, and since there is no drainage system in Barranquilla, the streets were literal rivers. We ran in through the creeks that fed into the larger flooded streets where the water was at least hip high and full of rapids. Ben, you should absolutely come and urban kayak this town in the rainy season! Just beware of the objects (tables, cars, chucks of street, or entire buses) swept away unwilling by the force of the water. This happens each time it rains in Barranquilla. Epic.

We had another night of rumba after our adventures in the rain, and now that we knew the effects of aguardiente, we were much more cautious with our drinking. FANTASTIC dancing and conversation until sunrise! Everyone we met in ‘Quilla was wonderful, and we had a difficult time leaving when the time came. But our ridiculously long trip was calling our name, and we had some much needed sleep to catch up on!

Because, sometimes you end up on an empty luxury bus smuggling contraband in Colombia! *UPDATED*

9 Oct

We last left off with a post about leaving the Guajira Peninsula. This Peninsula was incredibly impactful for the both of us and we still aren’t quite sure what we just experienced. It was at once both fascinating and incredibly offensive. Quite beautiful really. It was a place both R and I won’t ever forget and it probably won’t be the same in a few years due to the steady increase in tourism and outside culture. After experiencing this very unique Colombian Caribbean, we decided it was time to get serious and find us some work; leading us to the land of fincas, Minca.

Minca was of particular interest to us because 1.) we knew someone who would be willing to give us a job and 2.) it is close to the hot place to grow coffee, begonias, and contraband. Even with its proximity to contraband fincas, it is an incredibly safe place to visit as many tourists who stay in Taganga and Santa Marta visit it for the awesome waterfalls and vistas. We decided to go check it out and see if we felt good about volunteering with a gentleman named Oscar on his hostel/farm, even though he was a bit reluctant to tell us exactly what kind of finca he worked.

Before we set off to Minca we gave Oscar a quick call to see if he would share more about what he was organic farming and how we felt about staying with him. I was not in the mood to talk to him so R decided to be the big gal and give him a jingle. After talking to him for five minutes and only getting three sentences exchanged (there were a lot of long, drawn-out pauses) we decided to stay at another location in order to keep our freedom and make the decision after checking out the surroundings. We camped at this adorable Spanish couple’s hostel called Loma Linda. They not only have the most adorable kitten and dog in the world, they also have two breathtaking views: one of the ocean and the other of the Sierra Nevadas. We quickly agreed on a price, set up tent and hiked to Pozo Azul to jump into some nice cool waterfalls.

At the falls we ran into a fellow mountain-stater (who also happened to be a chemist) and he recommended a three-hour hike up the mountain to a nice little town with a great hostel that recently had some nearby fields burned (by the US DEA). We thought it sounded like a nice hike so decided to wake at sunrise to begin the hike before the heat set in. Turns out when our friend gave us directions he didn’t give them so clearly!

The hike started out like all of our usual hikes: gathering the local dogs who feel like going for a walk. The dog who stuck with us the longest was a great companion. If there was any motor bike or car driving too fast, he would start charging the wheels in attempts to slow them down. He even got so close to taking one motorcyclist out he got scolded by R! He was a sweetheart, though, and even caught a bird and gave it away to his mamasita. During the middle of the hike we came up to a nondescript building in the jungle just off to the side of the dirt path with an entire grip of men in camo, all carrying giant rifles. This was about 45 minutes away from the local police in Minca, where we noticed them spending their days sanding and repainting the local swing set. We are still not sure if it could be something to do with the paramilitary… but at any rate they were nice gentlemen who calmed their dog from starting a fight with our new buddy.

After hiking up a mountain for three hours and realizing that we had gone the wrong way we stopped at a little bar perched on the edge of the mountain cliff. It wasn’t open for business, but the woman cleaning was blaring romantic Spanish music and the view was breathtaking. We took it all in, from the sweeping jungle to the burnt patches of fields that led away to the other valleys. We decided that instead of staying up in Minca with Oscar we would instead head down the mountain to see if we could possibly get a job at The Dreamer hostel that we had been staying at the previous two days. Turns out that they were looking for some bartenders and we could work as temps until the 11th of October.

The job has been great so far. On the first day our amazing Australian couple we met in Panama City showed up and we have spent many fun nights with them! We have done laundry, read books in hammocks, taken a swim in the heat of the day, gone on day trips to the surrounding villages, and have visited many beaches! One day in particular was incredibly eventful and inspired the title of this blog:

It began with an interesting night of sleep. I was awoken by an Aussie in search of peanut butter, followed by the loudest cat-fight I have yet heard outside my window, only to then wake again to 7am construction hammering next door to our hostel! I gave up on the idea of sleeping and decided that my offer from the previous night to go surfing with two Ecuadorians sounded like a great plan. After waking R (not surprisingly, she was able to sleep through the hammering) we decided to eat breaky and head out with the two brothers. We first went to a popular Colombian beach resort called Buritaca. It was interesting, full of restaurants and people, but the water wasn’t very clean and there wasn’t a wave to surf. Clearly no reason to stay, so we jumped on a motorbike and headed to Playa Flamenca.

Playa Flamenca was gorgeous! It looked just like Tayrona but was completely empty of people and had one of the best waves I have ever ridden! Just getting to this beach we walked through a beautiful property full of palms and coconut trees, hidden back from the road and requiring us to ask permission before we sauntered through. The brothers let me borrow their board and I was able to ride a few waves before we had to rush back to work.

R and I decided that we would try to ride with whichever car passed us first, either hitchhiking home or taking the bus. Well, the moment we got to the road a bus honked at us to see if we needed a ride. We signaled yes and quickly ran to the door and stated our price to Santa Marta. He waved us on, agreeing to the low price we had stated without flinching. We have become so accustomed to bartering his agreement instantly threw us into a success shock! Then we walked aboard and realized there were no other customers anywhere, and we had just stepped onto a super sweet luxury bus. In fact, it was the nicest bus the two of us have been on since traveling in Latin America. We both thought hmm weird but it is still a clearly labeled bus, he is headed exactly where we are headed, and maybe he is picking up his people in Santa Marta to go on to another part of the country (so then our bus fare is just like extra bonus for his time transferring the bus)?

Then as we were sitting chatting about how lovely our day had been our bus driver pulled over and opened the cabin. He then proceeded to shove boxes under the seats in front and around us. R and I just looked at each other and said WTF in our heads, but otherwise the boxes and bags looked normal and he was so calm, so we burst into a wave of giggles. It all made sense, however, when we pulled up to a police checkpoint a few minutes later and a guard came aboard to check the cabin. He broke into a huge smile when he saw us sitting by ourselves on the bus, and we chatted with him and bonded over the fact that we were all Americans; he left with that huge smile still on his face and very little of the bus searched. The bus driver gave us an appreciative nod and then proceeded to take us to Santa Marta.

We are still not sure what was under the seats in front of us, but we got home safe and sound in comfort! He dropped us at the edge of town and we are still wondering if all of these incidents are only more exciting due to our over-active imaginations. In any case, we have been sure to read each situation before we commit to it, and we have walked away from any situations we didn’t feel 100% about. Colombia is not a dangerous drug den full of trouble like the media tells the world, but there are some circumstances that make us ponder what exactly is the nature of some business around these parts.

We are working our last night at the hostel here in Santa Marta and then are headed to the Colombia vs Paraguay game in Barranquilla on Friday where we will scout out my future boyfriend!