Tag Archives: Baeza

The Amazon

26 Feb

We have spent the last week in the Amazon, and it has been just as amazing as it sounds!

We were informed that the easiest and most economical access point for all things Amazon was here in Ecuador, but our access and prices were neither what we would call easy or inexpensive. And still, it had been worth every stress and penny! I can only imagine how much more we have to look forward to in other countries, because we will definitely want to visit again…

Our trip began with our escape from the cold, miserable rain of Cayambe. We had a later start than usual from waiting on our cousin (who we missed) and we just lucked into arriving to take the last daytime bus from Quito to Baeza.

Baeza is a pretty cute little town at the edge of the jungle, and the highway down to it skates along cliff edges and through some absolutely beautiful landscape. Baeza is surrounded with orchids and pretty jungle, but the best part of the town is its close proximity to Papallacta hot springs.

We skipped over to the pools early the next morning and spent hours in the complex, going from pool to pool. The entire place is ridiculously well maintained, and the pools varied from super hot to icy cold and everything in between. The altitude is still quite high so the air was frigid, and we checked our Internet and chatted with G before returning to Baeza for the evening.

I failed and took no pictures of this leg of the trip. 😦

But the next day we left town and began what turned out to be our challenging bus quest into the jungle. We took a local transfer, waited at the side of the road for another ride for hours, and finally got a bus to stop for us and drop us at San Rafael Falls.
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We met two friendly election workers who drove us to the entry and hiked with us to see the crashing water since they had never actually stopped before, and they were getting paid for their travel time between sites anyway. 20130218-195914.jpg
The crazy thing is that we hear this waterfall was larger but now water is being diverted for a hydroelectric project and this was the remaining size. Still pretty impressive!

We walked back out and then waited patiently on the side of the road for someone to take us. Again, for hours. Buses don’t stop if they are full, or expresses, or if they don’t want to. We got our ride in the late afternoon and then accidentally missed our stop for the night because about three different towns were all labeled Cascales, and Ecuadorian bus drivers are not as a rule helpful or good at remembering people.

So we ended up in the town at the edge of the northern Amazon, Lago Agrio. The locals informed us that there hasn’t been any trouble with the Colombian narco traffickers for five months now, and it’s considered safe to walk around, even at night. We didn’t do that, however. We stayed on the established hotel safe streets and were tucked into our bedroom by 8pm, like good little travelers.

We spent our time organizing our trip into the Cuyabeno Reserve, eating ensaladas de frutas, and watching movies on the Internet.

Our tour was organized through Dracaena, and our trip into the Amazon was absolutely wonderful. We spent four days looking for creatures, and saw quite a few.
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We had a great group, and all camped out in lodges light by candlelight. We bonded with our Canadian newlywed couple in hammocks, H swam with a Chilean mermaid and pink dolphins as well as snorted some local medicine water and I learned to whistle with some very interesting birds.

After 4 days we headed back out, and learned what a true rainstorm in the rainforest entails. So. Much. Water.

We transferred south to Tena and settled in back at the edge of the rainforest. Tena is a fairly large town, and seems to host quite a few tourists adventure-tripping into the jungle. White water rafting, caving, and deep jungle treks were out of our budget so we opted instead for a day trip to Misahuallí.

It took us two days to find the correct bus stop, and then we made a stop at what I like to think of as the robbery waterfall.
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Right before H’s bag went for a run:20130225-235051.jpg
After our latest Ecuadorean travel lesson we went and watched monkeys and tourists interact at the beach in Misahuallí. We were in no shape to do much more than sit on a log in the shade and observe the strange behaviors of both the humans and the monkeys, but it was endlessly entertaining!

We packed up and transferred to our last stop in the amazon, Macas. This town is adorable. It is set on a hill above the rivers, so it has a slight breeze and a little more sun and crazy views of the surrounding jungle. And then off in the distance is Sangay volcano, with snow on its peak.

There are picturesque parks with jungle foliage next to the swing sets, a beautiful modern church set at the highest point in town

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Full of beautiful stained glass depictions of local history

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And all of it overlooked by Sangay

There are local tribes of Shuar people (the ones who shrink heads and use poison darts and blow guns) and many tours into their communities.

The only downside? We cannot afford this little gem in the amazon for more than one night. So on we move to the highlands, to freeze and maybe watch a volcano erupt!