Archive | February, 2013

The Amazon

26 Feb

We have spent the last week in the Amazon, and it has been just as amazing as it sounds!

We were informed that the easiest and most economical access point for all things Amazon was here in Ecuador, but our access and prices were neither what we would call easy or inexpensive. And still, it had been worth every stress and penny! I can only imagine how much more we have to look forward to in other countries, because we will definitely want to visit again…

Our trip began with our escape from the cold, miserable rain of Cayambe. We had a later start than usual from waiting on our cousin (who we missed) and we just lucked into arriving to take the last daytime bus from Quito to Baeza.

Baeza is a pretty cute little town at the edge of the jungle, and the highway down to it skates along cliff edges and through some absolutely beautiful landscape. Baeza is surrounded with orchids and pretty jungle, but the best part of the town is its close proximity to Papallacta hot springs.

We skipped over to the pools early the next morning and spent hours in the complex, going from pool to pool. The entire place is ridiculously well maintained, and the pools varied from super hot to icy cold and everything in between. The altitude is still quite high so the air was frigid, and we checked our Internet and chatted with G before returning to Baeza for the evening.

I failed and took no pictures of this leg of the trip. 😦

But the next day we left town and began what turned out to be our challenging bus quest into the jungle. We took a local transfer, waited at the side of the road for another ride for hours, and finally got a bus to stop for us and drop us at San Rafael Falls.
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We met two friendly election workers who drove us to the entry and hiked with us to see the crashing water since they had never actually stopped before, and they were getting paid for their travel time between sites anyway. 20130218-195914.jpg
The crazy thing is that we hear this waterfall was larger but now water is being diverted for a hydroelectric project and this was the remaining size. Still pretty impressive!

We walked back out and then waited patiently on the side of the road for someone to take us. Again, for hours. Buses don’t stop if they are full, or expresses, or if they don’t want to. We got our ride in the late afternoon and then accidentally missed our stop for the night because about three different towns were all labeled Cascales, and Ecuadorian bus drivers are not as a rule helpful or good at remembering people.

So we ended up in the town at the edge of the northern Amazon, Lago Agrio. The locals informed us that there hasn’t been any trouble with the Colombian narco traffickers for five months now, and it’s considered safe to walk around, even at night. We didn’t do that, however. We stayed on the established hotel safe streets and were tucked into our bedroom by 8pm, like good little travelers.

We spent our time organizing our trip into the Cuyabeno Reserve, eating ensaladas de frutas, and watching movies on the Internet.

Our tour was organized through Dracaena, and our trip into the Amazon was absolutely wonderful. We spent four days looking for creatures, and saw quite a few.
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We had a great group, and all camped out in lodges light by candlelight. We bonded with our Canadian newlywed couple in hammocks, H swam with a Chilean mermaid and pink dolphins as well as snorted some local medicine water and I learned to whistle with some very interesting birds.

After 4 days we headed back out, and learned what a true rainstorm in the rainforest entails. So. Much. Water.

We transferred south to Tena and settled in back at the edge of the rainforest. Tena is a fairly large town, and seems to host quite a few tourists adventure-tripping into the jungle. White water rafting, caving, and deep jungle treks were out of our budget so we opted instead for a day trip to Misahuallí.

It took us two days to find the correct bus stop, and then we made a stop at what I like to think of as the robbery waterfall.
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Right before H’s bag went for a run:20130225-235051.jpg
After our latest Ecuadorean travel lesson we went and watched monkeys and tourists interact at the beach in Misahuallí. We were in no shape to do much more than sit on a log in the shade and observe the strange behaviors of both the humans and the monkeys, but it was endlessly entertaining!

We packed up and transferred to our last stop in the amazon, Macas. This town is adorable. It is set on a hill above the rivers, so it has a slight breeze and a little more sun and crazy views of the surrounding jungle. And then off in the distance is Sangay volcano, with snow on its peak.

There are picturesque parks with jungle foliage next to the swing sets, a beautiful modern church set at the highest point in town

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Full of beautiful stained glass depictions of local history

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And all of it overlooked by Sangay

There are local tribes of Shuar people (the ones who shrink heads and use poison darts and blow guns) and many tours into their communities.

The only downside? We cannot afford this little gem in the amazon for more than one night. So on we move to the highlands, to freeze and maybe watch a volcano erupt!

That time we planned a 6 hour hike & ended up gone for 14

18 Feb

Our family has left us again. This time we are a little more prepared to handle the transition, because we have a plan. Please note that by plan I mean finish the north of Ecuador this week , but any direction at all for us is pretty unprecedented.

Plus, this new system of plans allows us to indulge in our new favorite hobby, checking things off lists! After nearly 11 months of travel, H and I have begun to make notes of what we want to see/do. And it gives us a fun game of guess when we will arrive, which we will probably develop into a betting game soon.

In any case, we trekked ourselves up north to Cayambe to explore some more volcanoes. We arrived on the last day of carnaval dropped off our bags and headed straight into the center of town in search of ice cream. However, I was only able to snap one picture before we were overtaken by carnaval-celebrating youths.
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Cayambe is an adorable colonial town painted in an array of colors that I like to refer to as rainbow vomit. Much like H, we have found that Ecuador in general is in love with all things color in all types of combinations. I should not have been surprised, then, when we were swarmed by teenagers with canisters of dyed soap, buckets and balloons of colored water, eggs, and dirt…

But I was, and it is cold up in those mountains! We went back to our room at the Hosteleria Mitad del Mundo and warm-showered and movie-watched the evening away safe from more buckets of icy water.

We were well-rested for our early morning trip to Las Tolas de Cochasquí, supposedly just outside of town. However, we were a bit misdirected and ended up missing the connection with the site workers on their way to work (mostly due to unclear directions and guidebook misinformation about opening times). So at 7:50 we hiked the 8km (uphill) into the site and signed up with our (required) local guide, Octavio.

Octavio was awesome, and we were very pleased with our Spanish/history lesson! H made immediate friends with the other tourists,
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and they decided to join us for much of the tour once we all had a chance to check out the overview of our path.
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We walked about the site for an hour and a half. The site is at 3100m altitude and just a stone’s throw from the equator and has funeral mounds and pyramids of varying size and purpose, but maybe most notably for me, their sun calendar:
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It measures their days and seasons, and at midday in March and September equinoxes you cast no shadow, no matter what exercise you do. Plus they have festivities all weekend, so we are seriously considering a return trip next month!

We also got to go play spot the wildlife with our guide, the only photo I have is for G in particular:
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Did you find the tiny owl? There are 3…

We finished around 11:30 and decided it was early enough to try out the generally mentioned hike to the volcanic lakes that is just beyond Cochasquí. We were encouraged along when we ran into this colorful map that told us it was only 10.3 km away. That’s only about 3 1/2 hours (uphill)!
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The hike was indeed uphill, and was so stunningly pretty. There were so many interesting local flowers
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And as we ascended the views just got nicer and nicer of the surrounding valley.
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However, it was high. And long. And windy. And raining ice during this hike. We topped off at about 3900m high, when I was fairly sure that my hands were going to fall off.

But we quickly descended and alongside a road that had turned into a rushing river we found our first small miracle lake!
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I don’t know how I was able to make my hands take that picture… But I am even more confused by this one, which I assume is of the rushing river/road, from my pocket?
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We still had some more hiking and climbing left until we found the larger Laguna de Mojanda. This is the last thing my fingers could manage that day:
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The good news is we had completed our hike, the bad news? We still had to descend to Otavalo, which was described as a $10 cab ride away. How far is that exactly? We assumed not too far, and began walking (not that we had any other choice).

Turns out Otavalo is about another 20km away… We hiked about 10km with no idea how far we had left when we happened upon a family in a truck. They gave us a lift to their house, and then we found another truck full of milk to take us to town. So lucky!

We feasted on pineapple pizza, French fries, and ice cream in Otavalo and then had to catch a bus off the highway to get back home. We staggered in and collapsed into bed.

The next morning the hike to Volcan Cayambe was off, no snow after icy rain thank you! So we spent Valentine’s Day going on a date for lunch and then chatting and snacking on our raw foods favorites in the evening. 🙂

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The next day we tried to meet up with our awesome intense-motorcycling-adventure cousin who was crossing our path, but the timing was off. 😦 We needed some serious warming up, so we began our western journeys to thermal springs and the jungle.