We last left off with a post about leaving the Guajira Peninsula. This Peninsula was incredibly impactful for the both of us and we still aren’t quite sure what we just experienced. It was at once both fascinating and incredibly offensive. Quite beautiful really. It was a place both R and I won’t ever forget and it probably won’t be the same in a few years due to the steady increase in tourism and outside culture. After experiencing this very unique Colombian Caribbean, we decided it was time to get serious and find us some work; leading us to the land of fincas, Minca.
Minca was of particular interest to us because 1.) we knew someone who would be willing to give us a job and 2.) it is close to the hot place to grow coffee, begonias, and contraband. Even with its proximity to contraband fincas, it is an incredibly safe place to visit as many tourists who stay in Taganga and Santa Marta visit it for the awesome waterfalls and vistas. We decided to go check it out and see if we felt good about volunteering with a gentleman named Oscar on his hostel/farm, even though he was a bit reluctant to tell us exactly what kind of finca he worked.
Before we set off to Minca we gave Oscar a quick call to see if he would share more about what he was organic farming and how we felt about staying with him. I was not in the mood to talk to him so R decided to be the big gal and give him a jingle. After talking to him for five minutes and only getting three sentences exchanged (there were a lot of long, drawn-out pauses) we decided to stay at another location in order to keep our freedom and make the decision after checking out the surroundings. We camped at this adorable Spanish couple’s hostel called Loma Linda. They not only have the most adorable kitten and dog in the world, they also have two breathtaking views: one of the ocean and the other of the Sierra Nevadas. We quickly agreed on a price, set up tent and hiked to Pozo Azul to jump into some nice cool waterfalls.
At the falls we ran into a fellow mountain-stater (who also happened to be a chemist) and he recommended a three-hour hike up the mountain to a nice little town with a great hostel that recently had some nearby fields burned (by the US DEA). We thought it sounded like a nice hike so decided to wake at sunrise to begin the hike before the heat set in. Turns out when our friend gave us directions he didn’t give them so clearly!
The hike started out like all of our usual hikes: gathering the local dogs who feel like going for a walk. The dog who stuck with us the longest was a great companion. If there was any motor bike or car driving too fast, he would start charging the wheels in attempts to slow them down. He even got so close to taking one motorcyclist out he got scolded by R! He was a sweetheart, though, and even caught a bird and gave it away to his mamasita. During the middle of the hike we came up to a nondescript building in the jungle just off to the side of the dirt path with an entire grip of men in camo, all carrying giant rifles. This was about 45 minutes away from the local police in Minca, where we noticed them spending their days sanding and repainting the local swing set. We are still not sure if it could be something to do with the paramilitary… but at any rate they were nice gentlemen who calmed their dog from starting a fight with our new buddy.
After hiking up a mountain for three hours and realizing that we had gone the wrong way we stopped at a little bar perched on the edge of the mountain cliff. It wasn’t open for business, but the woman cleaning was blaring romantic Spanish music and the view was breathtaking. We took it all in, from the sweeping jungle to the burnt patches of fields that led away to the other valleys. We decided that instead of staying up in Minca with Oscar we would instead head down the mountain to see if we could possibly get a job at The Dreamer hostel that we had been staying at the previous two days. Turns out that they were looking for some bartenders and we could work as temps until the 11th of October.
The job has been great so far. On the first day our amazing Australian couple we met in Panama City showed up and we have spent many fun nights with them! We have done laundry, read books in hammocks, taken a swim in the heat of the day, gone on day trips to the surrounding villages, and have visited many beaches! One day in particular was incredibly eventful and inspired the title of this blog:
It began with an interesting night of sleep. I was awoken by an Aussie in search of peanut butter, followed by the loudest cat-fight I have yet heard outside my window, only to then wake again to 7am construction hammering next door to our hostel! I gave up on the idea of sleeping and decided that my offer from the previous night to go surfing with two Ecuadorians sounded like a great plan. After waking R (not surprisingly, she was able to sleep through the hammering) we decided to eat breaky and head out with the two brothers. We first went to a popular Colombian beach resort called Buritaca. It was interesting, full of restaurants and people, but the water wasn’t very clean and there wasn’t a wave to surf. Clearly no reason to stay, so we jumped on a motorbike and headed to Playa Flamenca.
Playa Flamenca was gorgeous! It looked just like Tayrona but was completely empty of people and had one of the best waves I have ever ridden! Just getting to this beach we walked through a beautiful property full of palms and coconut trees, hidden back from the road and requiring us to ask permission before we sauntered through. The brothers let me borrow their board and I was able to ride a few waves before we had to rush back to work.
R and I decided that we would try to ride with whichever car passed us first, either hitchhiking home or taking the bus. Well, the moment we got to the road a bus honked at us to see if we needed a ride. We signaled yes and quickly ran to the door and stated our price to Santa Marta. He waved us on, agreeing to the low price we had stated without flinching. We have become so accustomed to bartering his agreement instantly threw us into a success shock! Then we walked aboard and realized there were no other customers anywhere, and we had just stepped onto a super sweet luxury bus. In fact, it was the nicest bus the two of us have been on since traveling in Latin America. We both thought hmm weird but it is still a clearly labeled bus, he is headed exactly where we are headed, and maybe he is picking up his people in Santa Marta to go on to another part of the country (so then our bus fare is just like extra bonus for his time transferring the bus)?
Then as we were sitting chatting about how lovely our day had been our bus driver pulled over and opened the cabin. He then proceeded to shove boxes under the seats in front and around us. R and I just looked at each other and said WTF in our heads, but otherwise the boxes and bags looked normal and he was so calm, so we burst into a wave of giggles. It all made sense, however, when we pulled up to a police checkpoint a few minutes later and a guard came aboard to check the cabin. He broke into a huge smile when he saw us sitting by ourselves on the bus, and we chatted with him and bonded over the fact that we were all Americans; he left with that huge smile still on his face and very little of the bus searched. The bus driver gave us an appreciative nod and then proceeded to take us to Santa Marta.
We are still not sure what was under the seats in front of us, but we got home safe and sound in comfort! He dropped us at the edge of town and we are still wondering if all of these incidents are only more exciting due to our over-active imaginations. In any case, we have been sure to read each situation before we commit to it, and we have walked away from any situations we didn’t feel 100% about. Colombia is not a dangerous drug den full of trouble like the media tells the world, but there are some circumstances that make us ponder what exactly is the nature of some business around these parts.
We are working our last night at the hostel here in Santa Marta and then are headed to the Colombia vs Paraguay game in Barranquilla on Friday where we will scout out my future boyfriend!
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Rule #2: Don't Die. 