Archive | October, 2012

Bogotá, in pictures

30 Oct

We have spent a week in Bogotá, which has surprised both of us. We have been staying with a couch surfer, who has been kind enough to let us have our own room and bathroom in his high rise apartment. The best thing about our living arrangements is his dog.

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Her name is Oyuki, and she is the most adorable, playful puppy! But she needs a lot of attention and will demand it incessantly with her high-pitched, ear-bursting yips. How could you not want to play with her? She is a bundle of white, fluffy, wild fun!

We also have the advantage of an awesome location in the north of Bogotá, with sweeping vistas of the city.

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That, for example, is a view from the roof. We also enjoy evening lightening storms over the surrounding mountains.

We stroll about the city during the day while our host is at work. We frequent La Candelaria, where the colonial buildings are mixed with the new modern high rises in an interesting juxtaposition.
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The Plaza de Bolivar is the heart of the area, and the backdrop of the mountains is just 7 blocks away.

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The city is modern and absolutely huge, but still has its random moments of horse drawn carriages mixing with the rushing daily traffic.

But there is a general feeling of boredom in this city. Whether from the sea of dead faces that ride with us on public transportation, or the listless strollers through the streets, everyone seems to be detached from the feverish spirit of Colombia we were used to on the Caribbean Coast. For this reason, we have been very good about going on day trips to Zipaquirá, attending comic conventions, watching zombie walks, hiking up the nearby mountains, and spending entire days at the US Embassy. Ok, so that last one is not so exciting, but it was the reason we had to stay as long as we have here.

Our couch surfing host took us to H’s first comic convention, and we all decided to get into the spirit and dress accordingly. We raided his mother’s closet (she is a HUGE Halloween fan, even had her second marriage on the day in theme) and came up with an M&M costume for H and a vampire cape for me. Easy. Then we joined the serious costumers, an anime character, Frodo, and the Frank from Donnie Darko.

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We toured the site, tempting ourselves with Japanese Pocky and strange foods with faces. There was even a full-size Quidditch field, interactive Angry Birds, graffiti art by one of our favorite artists here in Bogota, archery and sword-fighting ranges, inline skate obstacle course, and dance area for the evenings. Random and awesome!

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On the Saturday night before Halloween we went downtown to watch zombies march through the pedestrian street in La Candeleria. They gathered beforehand in a park where we saw them “attacking” non-zombies, and with my irrational fears on display I convinced H that we should watch from a safe distance. H was of the opinion that we would be safest if we just went and joined them, and undoubtably she is correct. But my fear is irrational, so we hid in a coffee shop until I was sure they were not of the intimidating, crowd-attacking variety of zombies I was used to from living in Seattle.

Sunday we decided to shake off the cobwebs and get back into the hiking and exercise options in our southern lives. We braved the elevation and climbed the graded steps to the top of Monserrate. The elevation here is brutal to begin with (something like 2,580 meters) and then climbing an additional 2,000 meters is ridiculous. Also, every guidebook we read says that this is a bit of a dangerous hike, so we were glad to do the walk up the mountain with thousands of locals so we could blend in (we can actually do that here, everyone is pale from the cloudy weather/epically strong sun combo that leaves them sunburned easily as well!).

The hike was intense, and we are out of shape (our diet had been leaving much to be desired lately), but after gasping up untold number of stairs and inclines, we made it!

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Our view from the top:

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There was a church, with mass in session (I still don’t know the etiquette regarding pictures with that, so no interior for you. Although it was interesting).

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The panoramic view of the massive size of Bogotá was impressive.

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After it all, we have finally completed our task for Bogotá, and I have a new passport coming my way (eventually) in the next few weeks/months. This only took an appointment online and then an entire day alternating between pushing papers and staring at walls at the embassy. (H could not keep me company as she was not allowed inside the building for some reason. Instead she sat in the large grass mall inside the two layers of security fencing)

We move on tomorrow, but some small part of me will miss the impressive amount of time we spend either riding the TransMilenio bus system, or being in grocery stores here in Bogotá.
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My map to the bus system, so good! Their buses are their own section of road, and have free transfer points across the city, so we could get basically anywhere for less than a dollar a piece.

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We also entertain ourselves by looking for strange deals that combine toiletries and sweets,

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Trying strange fruits that are slimy and require sucking them out of their pods,

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And making strange raw veggie meals in the grocery store eating areas (this one is lettuce, worchestire sauce, avocado, chips, and tortilla).

Because who doesn’t want to pray in an underground salt mine?

29 Oct

We have been back on track and traveling south again for a week now. It took us a few days to get our bearings again (there was some awkward conversation there at the beginning (there was no one there to buffer our discussions), some eye rolling, and a little I’m-sick-of-you-and/or-the-way-you-are-talking-to-me-right-now-but-have-no-choice-but-to-spend-every-minute-together) and stop feeling the just-left-our-awesome-family blues. Bogotá had been a tough transition for us for not only the post-family blues, but especially the drastic elevation change and the fact that it is cold here. Like wear long pants and sweaters cold. Best solution we could come up with? Day trip!

We were both ready to stretch our legs a little in the country, and I decided that we would visit a church in a salt mine. I’m not sure how, but it did not immediately dawn on me that this mine would be, in fact, underground in a cave. I guess I was more in the “let’s get back to liking one another” and “they say this is a very important site for Colombians” thought patterns. So I got the two of us (with our awkward conversation and general unease around each other) onto a bus out to the mountains and put us in a cave.

For those of you who may not know, H and I had a small run-in with a cave in Malaysia in 2008 that did not turn out well (or any variety of acceptably ok for that matter). There was panic, squeezing through tiny holes in a deluge, and discussions of if we would be able to break a few of our companion’s bones in order to get her to fit through the tiny flooded exit. It was not a good scene. There have been may discussions about H’s crushing claustrophobia and avoiding such places at all cost in the future… Oops!

The good news is that the town of Zipaquirá is absolutely adorable! It’s nestled right up against a hill (mountain?) covered in pine and eucalyptus (weird, right?), so the air smells wonderfully fresh and the views are unique. We strolled through town, taking in the colonial houses and took a peek into the local cathedral.

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Turns out Zipaquirá has a quite impressive above-ground church in town as well, but as soon as I was getting out the iPhone for a few pictures mass started. Being unsure what the proper photo-while-mass-is-happening etiquette would be, we slipped out the back and headed up to the underground church.

If you are thinking, a catholic church underground? That sounds a bit odd. That’s because it is. It was also a bit expensive for our budget (which I had failed to research before we arrived in town… Oops!) but at $20,000 COP a piece we were also guaranteed a tour guide, a light show, and some sort of water works (the lady was a little vague). So down we went, and it wasn’t until we were passing into the darkness that I turned to H and said holy shit! This is a cave!. She just looked at me and said this is a mine and moved deeper into the darkness.

She was right, the Salt Church is large and airy, well excavated and well lit. The path in has the 14 stations of the cross designed by different artists using the previous excavation tunnels, carvings, and well placed lights. Our tour was in Spanish and largely about the stone and mining procedures, so I can’t speak of much more detail than it was a unique and pretty way to enter the church.

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The photos captured the stark and intense nature of the underground church, but there was some beautiful patterns in the stone and fragile carvings that complimented the sober feeling of being in a cave. The immense rooms were all strange and well planned, where we could see layer upon layer of rooms peeking through a cross or by cutting through cracks and into hidden chambers in the massive walls.

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The use of lights and sound in the cave ranged from well placed to overly (think Vegas) dramatic, but overall the impression was very aesthetically pleasing. At the end of our tour our guide left us at el espejo del agua, a shallow pool of water that reflected a perfect ghost image of the ceiling and surroundings. It was an eerie experience that left us both standing and staring for at least 10 minutes. Until we found this room:

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Where they put on the trippiest light show I have ever experienced (and I have been to a few electronic dance parties in my day, especially in San Francisco). I was beyond grateful that I was sober for the experience, but it did make us think the cavern would make a wonderful giant rave location. Although, I would absolutely recommend sobriety… If that place made me loose my mind without any help I could only guess what it would otherwise.

Upon returning to the open air we strolled back through town and got a little ice cream treat to enjoy in the plaza (being all local now and such). This is where we were approached (again) by a group of students working on some project to do with tourism. I am not sure if there actually is this many teachers in Colombia asking their students to harass tourists, or if there just aren’t that many other tourists around to answer their questions and be in their pictures. I am starting to wonder if it is just a good excuse to take a picture and have a new “gringa friend” to show the other kids at school.

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But taking pictures for school projects is kind of what we do now. And by we, I mean H. I am in support of us asking for $1,000 COP per person, per picture now. That’s a reasonable request, right?