Archive | May, 2012

We find that when you end up in the middle of a parade with no idea how it happened, you smile and wave

11 May

Let’s just clear the air a moment, we did not post last week. Which is weird, because I was sure that I had posted right at the beginning of the week. This is obviously incorrect information I had given myself, and I will blame it on my disinterest in learning how electronics work. Never fear, though, it turns out we are still alive, even though I seem to have lost some of my ability to hear in my right ear…

But let us start where we left off: we left our perfect spot in Costa Rica with heavy hearts. After having put off returning to Mal Pais for fear of it not be as amazing as we remembered, only to have it be just as awesome as our first visit, it was a little tough to move away. But I wanted some chocolate, and I was going to be getting older, so it was decided that we would go track down something fancy.

We packed up and headed to Monteverde, which is one of the most well-visited and well-known of the national reserves. The multiple buses and ferry ride turned out to be a whole day affair, with dusty, bumpy roads and hot, sticky winds blowing in through the open windows. We slowly wound our way up through the mountains, our bus driver stopping as often and for as long as possible until we found ourselves approaching a small town bursting with noise. Before long we noticed that not only had we stumbled upon some mountain festival complete with hay rides and horses, but the bus had ended smack in the middle of a parade through town. Seriously, we were now the equivalent of a parade float, with people cheering and waving from the side of the road and extremely loud music and dancing and such all around.

So we waved, because what else does one do when looking out upon a crowd of smiling, dancing, waving people? And it was awesome! That’s right, we’re famous parade diversions now, please contact us to book our services for your next town fiesta!

We arrived in Monteverde and were immediately greeted by a whole grip of people who wanted us to stay in their hotels, or try their zip line, or come to their restaurant, or book our night tours through their services. This was all happening while we were gathering the ridiculously heavy bags we carry and trying to find a little space to put everything down so we could get our bearings. Also, I had some slight discomfort is my right ear that was making it not only painful to open my jaw, but also took away some of my ability to hear what these people were shouting in Spanish. I’m not going to lie, after so many “no, gracias” I had gotten to the point of blunt refusal, and was more than likely a little rude. Definitely not my finest hour. Good news is H was there to soften my abrupt character and find us a place to stay for the night.

Accommodations in Monteverde vary a lot as to quality and price, as one would suspect from a tourist town, but since there are so many tours and trips and whatnot available (all of which give a kickback to where you book and where you are staying) there are actually some fairly inexpensive options available. We stayed in La Pension Santa Elena in a little chicken hut out in the back. They have a decent shared kitchen, a cute hang out area, and nice rooms available as well. But I really couldn’t enjoy it as much as I would have wished, because the slight discomfort in my ear had turned into splitting pain on the whole right side of my face, an inability to either chew or open my mouth wider that a small yawn, and no sound registering at all from the right side. I had decided that this is due largely to water getting trapped in my ear at sea level in Mal Pais, and then the elevation change went ahead and upped that pressure level to intense pain. So I got drops from a pharmacy to dry it out a bit.

But we took a stroll around the town even with my slightly unpleasant personality, and Monteverde just so happened to be hosting a marathon at the time. Runners from all over were sweating through the town, completely out of breath, looking like they wanted to collapse, but a few were not too close to death to perk right up as we cheered them by and take a moment and do some quick flirting with us as they passed. We purchased some locally made ice cream at the creamery and then went to pick up some hand-made chocolates. The store was closed, but since it was the day I get older, the owner opened up for us and chatted with us about the reserve and the process of making chocolate. He was fascinating and very knowledgeable, since he worked closely with the Costa Rica National Parks System as it was being founded.

We ran through the Monteverde park quickly. It was pretty, but fairly expensive (if you are a student, or have a student ID, bring it because then it’s reasonable) and mainly just a walk along a well maintained path unless you have a guide to help point things out. The jungle is so dense it’s hard to see anything besides green on your own (we did see an awesome tarantula, though!). And then we decided to pick up and run to Nicaragua. We heard it was less expensive, and we thought it might have been a good time to try out something a little more “sketchy” to prep for the next few months! Also, there was chance that we would get back to sea level so I could try to get the water pressure down in my ear.

Yep, I admit I haven’t been posting as I originally set out in the rules for this trip AND we went to Nicaragua. So as it turns out, this blog would not have pointed in the correct direction at all… We’ll try to work out the kinks in this system… But hey, at least we are sticking to Rule #2!

Old men suggesting condoms on the beach!

1 May

After R’s meltdown (let’s say due to extreme heat) we decided to vacate Liberia and take off running for the nearest beach!

As soon as the lovely owners of the bed and breakfast returned we got a ride to the bus stop and headed to Playa Hermosa (the Hermosa that’s located near Playas del Coco, not the one south by Jaco, nor the one on the east coast… Creativity doesn’t seem to be a high priority for Costa Rica city names! Either that or they have an abundance of beautiful beaches and can’t be bothered to call them by any other name) We spent twenty or so minutes wandering through the one block town when our extraordinary Peruvian friend rolled up into town! We decided to forget Hermosa and jumped in his vehicle to head further south to Playa Samara.

Playa Samara is a vacation spot for many Ticos, so we decided to check out the night scene at a couple of the local bars. There’s a set of three bars on the beach that have good deals on buckets of beer, and the most surprisingly comfortable reclined plastic outdoor furniture I have ever come across! Then we headed to the soccer field to join a mass of people outside a small bar. It was so happening that they had spilled out into and across the street. We spent the evening hours watching the sharks circle around the cute females, trying to guess who was interested in whom. Quite a fun game actually!

The morning was spent on the beach with multiple trips to the ocean in vain attempts to cool off until we finally just decided to get in the car and drive to Montezuma. The journey was only 60 km or so, but on a dirt road that was not so well maintained, so it ended up taking us four or so hours to finally arrive. The drive was pretty, and R started reading the questions out of her Spanish dictionary, so we had some strange but interesting conversations. We stayed at Hotel Lucy, which was an inexpensive dream, directly on the beach with unusually comfortable beds!

Montezuma was lovely, as we previously expected since we went there before on Semester at Sea. This time, however, we knew H needed to avoid shots on fire and actually make it to the waterfalls!

The first waterfall we went to was located 2km north of the town along the beach. It was spectacular, tumbling down into the ocean, and providing a swimming hole when the tide was low! We had the beautiful place to ourselves and found the Jardin del Eden!

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The next day after camping on the beach and leaving our belongings with the adorable owner at Hotel del Parque, we ventured to the most visited waterfall. There we watched crazy locals dive down the giant waterfall and hiked around on a sketchy trail, the type where the bridges across ravines have fallen, and if the steps were present they definitely didn’t seem like they would hold our weight!

Leaving Montezuma was rough but we knew going to Mal Pais would be extraordinary! It is important to note the entire time we have been in Costa Rica we have been saying we should just go to Mal Pais because we know that we love it there. But there is something about visiting a place again when the first experience was so positive, you never know if it will live up to your expectations. Well, we made it and we still love it!

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We stayed at the same place as we did in 2008, Mal Pais Surf Camp, which is an adorable location with a variety of types of accommodation, all around a large property that even has a pool accessible to the guests, quite a luxury. It has had a bit of a price increase since we were here last, but we’re told over and over again that it’s the fastest growing area in the country. Honestly, we did see new hostels and hotels down the main stretch of Playa Carmen, but it still has the feel of a small local beach community who happens to provide some good surfing waves. It may be that the area is so difficult to access, but we’re hoping that it stays this way for at least a few more years.

H had a great surf session, and tried out her thumb in the ocean. Turns out, everyone is interested in knowing more about discolored, broken up thumbs, and one nice old Tico man decided to approach R on the beach to talk to her about the benefits of using condoms. Not for that nonsenses people, because apparently they are great with a rubber band (a rubber with a rubber, cute right?) around a finger to keep the water from softening the skin too much and wearing off scabs. Let’s just say it was not a short nor comfortable conversation to be having in a large group of Ticos…

We went and checked out the night life on evening, and it turns out there is some sort of complicated system of bars in the area where only certain ones open on certain nights. Maybe to not waste money trying to out compete each other? In any case, we ended up needing to hike ourselves up the road to Santa Teresa, about 2 km, which for a moment was a dark little road with sketchy switch backs and chicos in the dark whistling. One of those moments when we ask ourselves in M’s voice “Are you being safe?”.

But we were safe, and we arrived at the bar with some slightly off, not-so-much reggae music and a bar that had run out of beer and was only offering watered-down rum and cokes. So when the band ended, we moved next door to what was meant to be reggae night but turned out to be a 90s dance party, which is really only fun for those people who had lived through it and remembered how those dances go (R definitely is one of those people, by the by). However, it was a good night, with dancing no less, which is ALWAYS fun!

Then we decided that while we could probably stay there forever, is was a little expensive and it was time to go back up to the mountains to cool off.

On a side note, the finger condom rubber band combination absolutely works. Condoms, they apparently are not just for protecting against STDs any longer. Thanks random old man, for making our trip that much more interesting!